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Artexing - Coving


Decorating equipment and advice from professionals.

This comes in many forms, plaster or polystyrene, and also in various sizes, for most houses 4 or 5 inch (or their metric equivalent 100mm and 127mm) is the preferred width. We think plaster coving looks better than polystyrene. Make sure you have enough lengths of coving to complete your job, remember you will “lose” a little when you cut your mitres.

Dulux Paint  

The mitres are the corner cuts you need to make when hanging coving, and is also the point at which most amateurs go wrong.

The trick (until you master it), is get a some offcuts of coving and get some practice in. Hiring a proper mitre saw is a worthwhile expense.

Next score up the top of the wall and a little way out from the ceiling with an old Stanley, to help the coving bond to the surface, but be careful you don’t score out further than the coving will sit.

Be sure to check which is the wall edge of your coving, and which is the ceiling edge, this should be written by the manufacturer’ on the  back of your length of coving, and cut your mitre. Once you have cut your mitre you should be ready to put up your first length.

Mix up some coving adhesive in a bucket, according to manufacturers’ instructions and load up both edges of the coving with the cove adhesive, using a filling knife, (we recommend a 5” dry lining tool). In consistency your coving adhesive should be fairly thick and you need to load up the entire length of the top and bottom edges of the coving (or wall and ceiling edges), with the coving adhesive, the coving adhesive should be applied evenly, about 20mm in height. You might need a bucket trowel to get the last of the adhesive out of the bucket.

Now it is time to hang your length of coving, for longer lengths we recommend 2 people hanging it, have any step ladders or working platforms in place and your filling knife and caulking tool to hand, you may also need a hammer and a few nails, push your coving into the desired position at wall ceiling junction being sure to make sure the wall edge sits against the wall and you don’t have your coving upside down, you should use your fingers to push both edges of the coving tight against the wall and ceiling, along the entire length of the coving, if your coving won’t stay in place just tack a few nails underneath the bottom edge of the coving and through the top edge, you should just bang these nails in a little way so you can pull them out later when the adhesive is dry.

When your coving is in place and has been pushed tight against the wall and ceiling, you should have excess coving adhesive hanging down from the wall edge of the coving, and excess adhesive will be squeezed out onto the ceiling too, this excess should be coming out evenly along the entirely length of the coving, but there  should not be so much excess that you get lots of droplets on the floor, use this first length as a guide line to see if you need to change the consistency you apply your cove adhesive to the coving.

Now using your caulking blade and filling knife, take any excess cove adhesive from the top and bottom edges of the coving (use your filling knife to do this and use your caulking blade as somewhere to wipe you’re the excess adhesive from your filling knife).

When you have removed all of the excess, get a 1” brush and some clean water and using a damp brush lightly run it over both edges of the now hung length of coving to smooth the filler and completely flatten any excess that may be still on the wall and ceiling, (on subsequent lengths you will (unless your mitres are perfect) need to use cove adhesive on your caulking blade, transferred onto your filling knife, to fill any gaps where two lengths of coving meet (the mitres), and then “wet brush” in the same way, to flatten the filler but make sure you have enough filler in the mitres to fill the joints. You can always rub the filler down with fine grade glass paper when it is dry if you are unable to leave it completely flat.
Now you just need to follow on in the same manner with subsequent lengths making sure you cut the mitres correctly.

Before you start >
Coving >
Artexing >
Patterning >
Cleaning Up >

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